That cooking oil, grease, or butter stain has been there for a while—and you’re worried it’s set for good.

Here’s the short version: set-in oil stains are still treatable. The American Cleaning Institute’s stain removal guide is clear: for grease and oil you pre-treat with a stain remover or liquid detergent, then launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric—and do not put the item in the dryer until the stain is removed, or heat can set it. Same idea as skipping the dryer on red wine or yellow sweat stains until you’re in the clear. Below is a calm, step-by-step plan for both fresh and set-in oil stains.

Clean fabric laid flat on soft linen, calm laundry aesthetic

Why oil stains are stubborn (and why heat is the enemy)

  • Oil and grease soak into fibers and can oxidize over time, which makes older stains look darker or more set-in. They’re not impossible—they often need repeated pre-treat and wash and the warmest water the care label allows to break down the oil.
  • Heat before the stain is out (dryer or iron) can set the stain and make it much harder to remove. So: no dryer until the stain is gone. Check after each wash in good light; if you still see a ring or shadow, air-dry and re-treat.

Step 1: Pre-treat with something that cuts grease

  • Liquid laundry detergent or dish soap (the kind you use at the sink) both work because they’re meant to break down oils. Apply a small amount directly to the stain—both sides if you can—and gently work it in with your fingers. Let it sit for 5–15 minutes (longer for set-in stains; you can leave it for 30 minutes or more). Using the right amount of detergent in the wash matters too—too much can leave residue; use the recommended dose for the load.
  • Prewash stain remover (spray or stick) is another option; follow the product label. ACI recommends pre-treating with a prewash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent for grease and oil, then laundering in the hottest water safe for the fabric.

For heavy or set-in oil stains, the ACI suggests placing the stain facedown on clean paper towels, applying cleaning fluid (or detergent) to the back of the stain so it pushes the oil out into the towels, and replacing the towels as they soak up the grease. Then rinse and launder.

Step 2: Wash in the warmest water the care label allows

  • Check the care label. Cotton and many linens can take warm or hot water; synthetics and delicates may say cold or warm. Warmest allowed helps break down oil—ACI specifies “hottest water that’s safe for the fabric” for grease, oil, butter, and mayonnaise.
  • Use your normal measured detergent in the wash. Don’t overload the machine so the item has room to agitate.

Step 3: Check before you dry (this is the step that saves clothes)

  • When the cycle ends, inspect the stained area in good light.
  • If you still see a ring or shadow: do not put the item in the dryer. Air-dry and repeat: pre-treat again, then wash again (warmest allowed). Set-in stains often need two or three rounds.
  • If the stain is gone, you can dry as usual.

If it’s still there after two or three washes

  • Repeat pre-treat and wash with the warmest safe water. For very stubborn oil, try the “stain facedown on paper towels” method: apply detergent or a prewash product to the back of the stain, replace the towels as they absorb oil, then rinse and launder again.
  • Oxygen bleach (e.g. sodium percarbonate) can help on whites and colorfast items if a slight tint remains—follow the product label. Do not use chlorine bleach on oil stains unless the care label explicitly allows it; it can worsen some discolorations.
  • Dry clean only: If the label says dry clean only, don’t soak or aggressively scrub. Blot any excess oil with a clean cloth, then take the garment to a professional and tell them it’s an oil or grease stain and whether it’s fresh or set-in.

Quick FAQ

“Can I use dish soap on clothes?”

Yes. Dish soap is formulated to cut grease, so it’s a good pre-treat for oil and grease stains on washable fabrics. Use a small amount, work it in, let it sit, then launder as usual with laundry detergent. Don’t use so much that the wash suds excessively—overdoing detergent can leave residue.

“Why did the stain get worse after the dryer?”

Heat can set oil and grease into the fibers. If any stain remains when you put the item in the dryer, it can become harder to remove. Always check after washing and skip the dryer until the stain is gone—same as for red wine and yellow sweat.

“What about butter or mayonnaise?”

Butter and mayonnaise are fat-based; treat them like oil. ACI recommends: pretreat with a prewash stain remover, then launder using the hottest water that’s safe for the fabric. Don’t dry until the stain is gone.

“What if the care label says cold only?”

Use cold water as required. Pre-treat well and you may need an extra wash or two. Cold can still work; it often takes more patience and repetition than warm.


Sources

  • American Cleaning Institute (ACI): Stain Removal Guide (general steps: pre-treat, launder in warmest safe water, do not put in dryer until stain is removed; grease and oil: light stains—pre-treat with prewash stain remover or liquid detergent, launder in hottest safe water; heavy stains—stain facedown on paper towels, apply cleaning fluid to back, replace towels, rinse, launder; butter and mayonnaise—pretreat with prewash stain remover, launder in hottest safe water).
  • CDC: Laundry and bedding guidance (handling and laundering principles; warm water and thorough drying where applicable).