You slathered on the SPF. Now your shirt, towel, or collar has a greasy smear that won’t quit—and you’re not imagining it.
Here’s the short version: most sunscreen stains wash out. The American Cleaning Institute’s guide to removing sunscreen from clothes is clear: pretreat with a prewash stain remover, then launder in the hottest water that’s safe for the fabric—and check that the stain is gone before you put the garment in the dryer, because heat can set any leftover residue. If an oily smudge remains after that, it’s usually the oil in the formula—treat it like set-in oil stains: dish soap or detergent on the spot, let it sit, rinse, then wash again. Below is a calm, step-by-step plan so the “sunscreen smudge crisis” doesn’t ruin your summer favorites.
Why sunscreen leaves a smudge (and why heat is the enemy)
- Sunscreen is meant to stay on skin—water-resistant formulas often contain oils and waxes that stick to fabric. When they transfer to clothes (collars, towels, tee shirts), they can leave a greasy or yellowish mark. That doesn’t mean the garment is ruined—it just needs the same approach as other oil-based stains: something that cuts grease, warm water, and no dryer until the stain is gone.
- Heat before the stain is out (dryer or iron) can set the oily residue and make it much harder to remove—same as red wine or yellow sweat. So: check after each wash in good light; if you still see a ring or smear, air-dry and re-treat.
Step 1: Pre-treat the stain (5–10 minutes)
- Prewash stain remover (spray or stick): Apply to the sunscreen smudge, let it sit for 5–10 minutes, then launder. ACI recommends this as the first step for sunscreen on clothes.
- Liquid laundry detergent or dish soap: If you don’t have a prewash product, use a small amount of liquid detergent or dish soap (the kind you use at the sink) directly on the stain. Both cut oil. Work it in gently with your fingers and let it sit for 5–10 minutes (longer if the stain is set-in). Using the right amount of detergent in the wash matters too—too much can leave residue; use the recommended dose for the load.
For stubborn or set-in smudges, treat like oil stains: place the stain facedown on paper towels, apply detergent or dish soap to the back of the stain so it pushes the oil out into the towels, replace the towels as they absorb, then rinse and launder.
Step 2: Wash in the warmest water the care label allows
- Check the care label. Cotton towels and tees often allow warm or hot water; synthetics and delicates may say cold or warm. Warmest allowed helps break down the oily part of sunscreen—ACI specifies “hottest water that’s safe for the fabric.”
- Use your normal measured detergent in the wash. Don’t overload the machine so the item has room to agitate.
Step 3: Check before you dry (this is the step that saves clothes)
- When the cycle ends, inspect the stained area in good light.
- If you still see a smear or ring: do not put the item in the dryer. Air-dry and repeat: pre-treat again (dish soap or detergent on the spot works well for leftover oil), then wash again (warmest allowed). ACI notes that if stains remain after the first wash, it’s likely the oily component—apply liquid dishwashing detergent to the stains, let sit 5–10 minutes, rinse, then wash again in hot water (if the care label allows).
- If the stain is gone, you can dry as usual.
If it’s still there after two washes
- Dish soap on the spot: Apply a small amount of dish soap directly to the remaining smudge, let it sit for 5–10 minutes, rinse with cool water, then launder again in the warmest safe water. This targets the oily part of the formula.
- Repeat pre-treat and wash as needed. Set-in sunscreen can take two or three rounds—same patience as set-in oil stains.
- Dry clean only: If the label says dry clean only, don’t soak or scrub. Blot any excess with a clean cloth, then take the garment to a professional and tell them it’s a sunscreen (oil) stain.
Quick FAQ
“Does spray sunscreen stain worse than lotion?”
Both can leave oily smudges—spray often has alcohol and oils that transfer to collars and cuffs. Treat both the same: pre-treat with something that cuts grease (prewash stain remover, detergent, or dish soap), wash in warmest safe water, and don’t dry until the stain is gone.
“Why did the stain set after I put it in the dryer?”
Heat sets oily residue. If any sunscreen stain is still visible when you put the item in the dryer, it can become much harder to remove. Always check after washing and skip the dryer until the stain is gone—same as for red wine, oil, and yellow sweat.
“What about sunscreen on towels?”
Same steps: pre-treat the smudge (prewash stain remover, detergent, or dish soap), wash in the warmest water the care label allows, and don’t dry until the stain is gone. Using the right amount of detergent and avoiding too much fabric softener on towels helps them stay absorbent and easier to keep clean.
“Can I use bleach on sunscreen stains?”
Only if the care label says the fabric can be bleached. For many sunscreen stains, pre-treat + warm wash is enough. If a tint remains on whites or colorfast items, oxygen bleach (e.g. sodium percarbonate) can help—follow the product label. Don’t use chlorine bleach unless the care label allows it.
Sources
- American Cleaning Institute (ACI): Removing Sunscreen (Clothes) (pretreat with prewash stain remover; launder in hottest water safe for fabric; check stain is gone before putting in dryer—heat can set stains; most sunscreens wash out relatively easily).
- American Cleaning Institute: Stain Removal Guide – Grease and Oil (for oily residue: pre-treat with prewash stain remover or liquid detergent; launder in hottest safe water; do not put in dryer until stain is removed).
- Clorox: How to Get Sunscreen Stains Out of Dark Clothes and Fabrics (if stains remain after pretreat and wash, apply liquid dishwashing detergent to stains, let sit 5–10 minutes, rinse, wash again in hot water; do not dry until stain is gone).